Already synonymous with classic, a word used generously by men’s designer Frank Muytjens at his presentation today, J.Crew reached a new level of American classicism for Spring. The collection was presented—together with women’s, designed by head women’s designer Somsack Sikhounmuong—on a diverse group of non-models and friends of the brand, ranging from musicians and artists to a bartender and a dingo handler. And it took place on the anniversary of 9/11, a fact not lost on Muytjens. “There is no stuffiness,” he affirmed, “certainly not today.”
A nature-lover and country-living enthusiast, Muytjens is forever roaming atmospheric American landscapes in search of authentic Americana, whether a preppy enclave like Martha’s Vineyard or the grand vistas of Yellowstone National Park. Last season he was taken with the pastoral patina of a trove of old horse blankets he discovered. This season he found inspiration in the photographs of Mike Disfarmer, whose engaging portraits of rural Arkansans in the early 20th century are about as classic as it gets.
A lot of the offerings resulted from looking at archival pieces, Muytjens said, but from a new perspective. As it turns out, and this has no doubt been true throughout history, it takes quite an effort to achieve effortlessness. “You should see our rooftop,” he laughed, referring to his team’s experiments in sun-bleaching that informed a nicely faded pink crewneck sweater. Although, it was an extra-thick cable-knit cardigan next to it that stole the sweater show.
The team also researched fabric manipulation, which led to an excellently rumpled and over-dyed indigo madras suit, and many iterations of that most classic of materials, seersucker. Elsewhere, everyman shirts and jackets had names like Critter and Chore, while caramel pants were wide-legged or patchworked in a limited edition. Even a glistening double-breasted tuxedo was brought down a notch with an aw-shucks plaid shirt worn underneath and a matching bowtie, reminding Muytjens of Paul Newman and his humbly charming nature. Now there’s a classic.
